Friday 26 January 2007

Laos- the story so far..


Sarah's vogue shot- in the back
of a tuk tuk to a sketchy Lao club!



Tubing on the Mekong!


One of the bars down the river..


A well deserved day of sitting in the sunshine..


Lyndon eating- he's a GIANT!

Ha Long Bay Pics..



Sunday 21 January 2007

In SUNNY Laos..

So, we left Hanoi at 4am to fly to Hue which as wet and cold- gr. There people there are mean too- definitely harder than the rest of 'Nam. Although someone bought us dinner again there- clearly something about that place (did I mention a group of Presbyterians from the US bought us dinner the first time we were there? very random- we were on the doorstep of this restaurant and this guy appeared with no shoes on offering to buy us dinner- we went as otherwise we couldn't get a table for an hour and they were really cool. All sponsoring local families in Vietnam so the daughters could get an education. And they all hated Bush! Ha ha.. )

We then got on a bus at 6 and were shunted into various local buses across the border to Laos, arriving at 6pm (after the engine broke, the local shops had had all their deliveries etc. etc..) We then got on a night bus to Vientiane, which is sunny and sleepy and a complete relief!


so far Laos is beautiful. I'm sad we don't have longer here. We're going to head up to Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang in the next couple of days and then try and get a flight to Cambodia to cut out the 4 day bus journey (as I have to go home for a few days on the 11th Feb- 16th- give me a call if you're around!!)

Much love, Bitsy xx

Tuesday 16 January 2007

Too much to say..

Exhausted. Back in Hanoi. We had to have a nap today! I'll start from the begining but it may not make so much sense..

Hoi an was beautiful- touristy but stunning. Little crumbling sepia shops and temples on every corner. Bakeries, laquer, gorgeous taliors and french cafes- everything 'Vietnam' should be. I could've sat for days in a coffee shop, but we had to move on. (Not without someone convincing us that we could get two jackets and a suit made in 12 hours! They are lovely though, and would cost so much at home. The tailoring was far superior to suits I had made in China- I then I got news of a job interview, so now it seems worth it!?)

From Hoi An we got the bus to Hue- and were hassled from the second we peeped around the door of the bus. People in the north seem different. In Hue we went and toured the masoluems of old emperors with our guide Ty- who was fantastic. I'd recommend him to anyone (I have his number so I can send it to anyone interested!)

After our raininy day in Hue we flew to Hanoi- cheating, but it seems we're pressed for time. (Where has a month gone? Ei ya..)

Hanoi is lovely- much more European feel that makes me feel relaxed and at home. the market is HUGE and we spent a good while bargaining for waterproof trousers! How sexy..

...but necessary! We got the over night train to Sapa and went trekking to the hill tribes in the mist. The homestay wasn't reallt a homestay, but we has a lovely group of Canadian and Australians and enjoyed playing with the children too. It seems the fingers of capitalism have reached the far flug corners of even socialist countries- all the girls wanted us to buy something from them. The second day our guide (15 year old Tzu- who had been married and divorced) took us to meet her family in her village- which was much more a representation of life. And still the children were playing and smiling more than many of the kids in Hong Kong. The world is a confusing place..

And now we're back in Hanoi. We went to see Ho Chi Minh this morning- which was an odd experience indeed. Considering he didn't want to be embalmed the whole thing is very pompus. Then we went to the Hanoi Hilton- the prison where the American POW's were kept, renound for its appaling conditions. That place was creepy too- I wonder if it would be as eeriy withyour eyes closed? If you didn't know where you were- would it still send a shiver? hmm..

Anyways, up to speed now! We're off to see the water puppets tonight and then spending a night on a junk in Halong Bay tomorrow. Sarah wants to go Kayaking but I think there's been enough outdoors this week! Maybe if it's sunny.. x

last ones for a while!!

My Easy rider Rene; Treking in Sapa


Even more Pics..





Some more pics...

From left to right: The Easy rider tour in Da Lat; Hanoi's famous hotels; Hoi An; the jackets we had taliored in Hoi An(!); Hue





Saturday 13 January 2007

In love..

Can't believe Abbie's only been gone a wekk- we've made it all the way to Hanoi! Stopped in Nha Trang and then got the sleeper to Hoi An- which is by far my favorite place so far. Just gorgeous.

Anyways, just quiclkjly to say we're in Hanoi safely and going north to the hills (Sapa) to do some trekking (!) and a homestay. then back to Hanoi and off to Halong bay..

Will try and update this soon as the internet connection here is amazing!! x

Monday 8 January 2007

The return of Tanja...

For a year in Barcelona, I was Tanja. You would think that the proximity to France would mean that Danielle wasn't too much of a stretch, but invariably people called me Tanja. After a while, I gave up- Tanja, my alter ego?, won. Mainly I gave up beacuase when we insisted our names were Frances, Leo and Danielle people were very upset that the names translated as 'French', 'I read' and 'Daniel'.


Tanja was reborn again to day by the easy riders. Again, they were all taught french at school here in Vietnam- my guide even went to a French school. Maybe I'll just be Tanja again for a while- just to see what it's like...

Today has been special- I have had both Grundy and John rave about the easy riders, but I don't think I really understood what we were doing. I feel like I've learn't so much about the Vietnamese today. On the back of their Hondas we drove for miles through stunning valleys and terraced fields. I have visted flower farms, seen every tpye of vegetable you can imagine being grown, seen temples, blacksmiths, brooms being made, mushrooms being grown (in bags strung up in tents!), rice wine being made. The most amazing was silk- we saw the silk worms being fed and then visited a factory where they spun the cucoons into silk. It's an incredibly and very intricate process. Both Sarah and I bought silk scarves for a pound- I just couldn't stand the idea of it ending up in tie rack for 9.99.

But the real beauty of this was being with these guys was like having a passport into these peoples lives- not just because they explained everything to us, but also beause we were warmly welcome into homes everywhere we went. The Vietnamese are just such warm people- warm like the Thai people but more genuine and still interested in tourists.

I've also decided that Vietnam is the least communist country I've ever been to (which only numbers 3, but Cuba and China are both so different)If fact, there is nothing communist about this place- they have private property and profit, they pay for their education (and healthcare?) and are about to pay income tax. I guess the only question is has America won the war with Vietnam through economics, or was the entire war based on a misunderstanding about 'communism'in Vietnam? either way it makes me sad- but the latter saddest. It's Cuba all over again- America responsing to the word communist like a red flag to a bull. Castro wasn't even a communist to start with... Still at least now the word has become old, and the world 'nuclear' seems to be the buzz word to jolt fear into the minds of millions (Grundy- I expect you to have an opinion on all this!!!)

anyways, enough of this essay! Just spent the last two hours discussing A.I. with a guy from Barcelona and an Italian- very embarrassing that I am proficient in neither language and have lived in both places! Ei ya... xxxx

Sunday 7 January 2007

Catching up...

So, we have arrived in Da Lat, which has about as much going on as an out of season ski resort! Plus it's freezing- uncharateristically so- and the locals are all in big coats and wooly hats!! Suddenly very glad of my jeans and jumper (and thinking how cold it must be in Edinburgh- how did I live there?!)

We've got a bus from Sai gon which took a horrible 7 hours, but wound up through the mountains which were quite breathtaking. The terrain is really different here- it looks less like a Vietnam movie than the delta where we spent the last two days..

The Mekong delta is the 'rice bowl' of vietnam; the river is huge and the terrain as flat as a very flat thing (in the words of Blackadder.) We paddled along in little boats, visited islands, saw noodles being made and coconut candies. We both held a python (not sure how that fitted in, but hey ho) and ate snake for dinner!! Met a cool guy from, er, well hugarian but born in the Uk, grew up in Canada and now lives in Austria. Had some interesting views about women (which as you can imagine got a little heated but made the bus journey more interesting!) We all then went out for dinner with our local guide- which was one of the most hilarious meals I've ever had. After much confusion, we finally deduced that 'singing a song in the happy room' meant going for a wee, 'buom buom' means sex and 'cow shaking'- my personal favourite- was in fact a local dish a frenchmans wives made while dancing. And there was I quizzing him if they held it by the legs when they shook it..

Next day we got up early and saw the floating markets and crused down the river- by this time we had also picked up this guy from the US. Americans- you really can't take them anywhere. Anyways the four of us had fun and the American told us about a 'Gibbon experience ' in Laos- you can go and live with the monkeys in tree houses with zip lines! I want to go!!

Before we went to the delta we also spent a day at the Cu chi tunnels and Cao Dai temple. Caa Dai was really interesting; it fuses Buddism, Taoism, confusionism and elements of christianity and Islam (I think). sounds like the answer to all the worlds problem to me- but I guess others would think they're just covering all bases.

the Cu Chi tunnels were amazing- it's no wonder that the Americans couldn't infiltrate them. they're three levels deep with kitchens and schools down there. The tunnels I'm in is a widened version for tourists- the rest are half that size! I still had a bit of a phobia about going down but glad I did (and glad I got out again!) The only upsetting thing was the documentary which ran through the Cu Chi Guerillas that were awareded the hero medal for killing lots of American's. Just ruinined the incredible attitude demonstrated in the War Remnants museum the day before.

So, we're pretty much following the tourist trail- tomorrow we're off with th eEasy rider, then on a bus to Nha Trang and then the train up to Da Nang on the train. We've booked a flight from Hue to Hanoi to try and save some time as the visa runs out on the 20th! So there's the plan!!

Would be nice to hear news- its actually easy to check mail but usually very, very slow. Also can recieve texts but can't seem to send them- sorry if I don't get back to you!! xxxx

Saturday 6 January 2007





More pics- clearly I didn't like th python!! Boat trip in the Mekong Delta and coming out of a tunnel!!! x

some pictures!








Not sure how to label these, but some of our island, making mulled wine on the beach, the sunset from our hut, second sunset on NY's 2006, and in a Cu chi tunnel!!

Wednesday 3 January 2007

Hidden History..

The next installment!

Due to a typhoon and a Tsunami warning (mum- we're ok) we couldn't get off Phu Quoc. It was paradise but very quiet and I'm glad we've moved on now. Sarah made friends with the entire crew of divers here so New Years was spent doing shots of tequlia and dancing with them in Eden- the only bar still going on the beach! We made friends with the manager and gave him mince pies on Christmas day so all got special sparklers- was very silly and fun. The hotel next door launched about 100 paper mini hot airballoons that sailed off into the night sky bidding farewell to 2006- it was lovely.. (Marian- you remember the ones we saw on ko Samet? Just like them except loads going up one after another..)

We toured the whole of the Island on scooters (driven by Vietnese men!) and we've all got quite a tan now- no longer white and vunerable which is much better than before..

Back in Sai Gon early this morning after another bumpy ride on a 60 seater plane. We are staying in the Hong Kong hotel (!) - which has clean sheets and air con and even a TV. Most welcome afte rthe last hut we were in.

We wondered around the huge market here and then went to the War Remenants Museum today- which was incredible. It was the most simple display of photos and text, but mesmerising... But some of the pictures- it was truley horrific. The things the US soldiers did are just unspeakable. I cried. The disfigurement of children due to Chemical weapons, even today, makes me feel that war is always so wrong. I am more determind than ever to visit My Son (My Lai to us I think) when we go further north. How easily these images pass us and we forget- or choose to forget - them. And the most moving part of it was that it also spoke for american soldiers hurts by Agent Orange in the war. Unlike to the communist propaganda I saw in Cuban museums, this seems to show sympathy and understanding for everyone hurt. Obviously it was a different story- as in, Vietnam is now liberated and unified by the commuinists- but I'm still in awe of these people. They have had such a terrible history and yet are so welcoming and warm to everyone- even American's. I feel so much respect and admiration for people here. It's the most amazing attitude.

Tomorrow the cu Chi tunnels, which I'm really excited about! I have lots of lovely photos but just can't find anywhere with a USB- words will have to do..

Love you all, Happy New Year! Any resolutions?? xxxx