I have been home a week- in 'real time' if not Danielle time. Until yesterday it didn't seem like I'd stopped anywhere. I continue to yo -yo back and forth between 'please take me back to Asia' and 'I just want to stay here with the people I adore'. There are some definite plus points to the UK. I can go for long runs in leafy fields by the Thames (and not be dripping in sweat or breathing car fumes). My family are here, especially my grandpa who's been seriously unwell and my grandma who is going a bit dippy (she thought she'd won the lottery on Wednesday- turns out she'd got her ticket confused with the slip you print the results on. Oh lord..) . And I have wonderful, smart, challenging friends here, who I love and want to be part of the fabric of their lives again. One of my old flatmates appears to have been in a relationship for a year without me knowing. I'm ashamed and saddened to have missed out on the important experiences of the people I love.
But.
There it is- that niggling but. I love Asia. I loved Hong Kong. In terms of lifestyle, I could have a better life in HK than the UK. And I would probably love my job for the next two years as a primary school teacher. I could continue to travel, enjoy HK and save. A lot.
But.
There it is again. There is a hesitancy to commit to going back.
Who knows what the future will hold. I’m awaiting my epiphany. Failing that, I just have to make my mind up...
-The End-
Monday 21 May 2007
Russia and Transiberian pictures
Petrohof- St. Petersburg
Church of Our Savior on the Spilled Blood- St Petersburg
The spot where Alexander II was assassinated
Stanislavsky's grave (well, I was excited..)
St. Basil's Moscow
'Peasants? What Peasants?'
Inside the Hermitage
Our decorate cabin (for 5 days and 4 nights)
Church of Our Savior on the Spilled Blood- St Petersburg
The spot where Alexander II was assassinated
Stanislavsky's grave (well, I was excited..)
St. Basil's Moscow
'Peasants? What Peasants?'Inside the Hermitage
The outside if the Hermitage
The transiberian...
The makeshift poker table..
Our decorate cabin (for 5 days and 4 nights)
Mongolia Pics..
Our driver
THE meat feast (the closest I've come to being a Flintstone)
sheer nothingness
I want a goat.
Our first home in a ger..
THE meat feast (the closest I've come to being a Flintstone)
sheer nothingness
I want a goat.
Our first home in a ger..
Sunday 6 May 2007
Where I've been..
7 days in Mongolia
I ended up staying in Ger's and touring the countryside for a week in Mongolia! It was awesome- sadly this PC won't let me add any photos and I don't have time to write a full account, but you can cheat and read Danny's excellent account of the whole week if you're interested: http://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny+in+Asia/ (Dan- hope that's ok? Let me know if not and I'll take down the link..)
5 days on a train
I took the transiberian express from Ulaanbaator to Moscow across Siberia! It took 5 days- the train running on Moscow time for the whole journey (so outside it was dark and inside the train it was only 3pm!)
My wonderful companions from our Mongolia trip helped load me, and my huge box of food, into a small 2 berth compartment. My roomie turned out to be a Chinese born Texan, who turned out to be close to the perfect buddy. We decorated our little cabin with Tibetan and Mongolia prayer flags, multicoloured butterflies and shawls. I think this means we got extra inspection at the Russian border- which took six long hours anyway. As with the Mongolian border crossing, the officials were all in frighteningly pressed and starched uniforms, only without the stiletto patent black ankle boots of the Mongolian officials.
The days rolled past easily; we spent the hours reading, talking or trying to have a wash in the tiny metal sink while being thrown around by the train. To one side, we have the company of two Canadians, Ian and John. Ian was John father, and I can only describe as 'Clint Eastwood' character with his gravelly voice and swaying hips. To our other side, we had two English lads, one of whom a poker addict. After fashioning a makeshift poker table out of the train back rests and suitcases, we would settle down for the night to play Texas hold'em. we improvised chips with pretzels, various coins from our travels and worthers originals (although Ian was sad to let them go.) There may also have been a little vodka involved...
Moscow and St Petersburg
I met dad at the train station yesterday- slightly vexed that in Asia, spotting someone is normally easy. Here suddenly I was faced with the prospect of finding my slightly greying father in his signature leather jacket in a crowd of.. middle aged men sporting leather jackets. However, as the people here so far have had cold, hard faces with steely eyes, I soon picked out a friendly face. We spent yesterday wondering around the city, which is actually more beautiful than I expected, but like it's citizens is steely and cold. I got my first glimpse of St Basil's last night at dusk, and had my first proper meal in about 2 weeks. Wonderful.
Staying in proper hotels, internet access is going to be expensive and I doubt I'll have much free time. So I promise a full train, Mongolia and Russian run-down will appear one I am back in blighty (with no job or any money- I'll have nothing else to do!!)
I ended up staying in Ger's and touring the countryside for a week in Mongolia! It was awesome- sadly this PC won't let me add any photos and I don't have time to write a full account, but you can cheat and read Danny's excellent account of the whole week if you're interested: http://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny+in+Asia/ (Dan- hope that's ok? Let me know if not and I'll take down the link..)
5 days on a train
I took the transiberian express from Ulaanbaator to Moscow across Siberia! It took 5 days- the train running on Moscow time for the whole journey (so outside it was dark and inside the train it was only 3pm!)
My wonderful companions from our Mongolia trip helped load me, and my huge box of food, into a small 2 berth compartment. My roomie turned out to be a Chinese born Texan, who turned out to be close to the perfect buddy. We decorated our little cabin with Tibetan and Mongolia prayer flags, multicoloured butterflies and shawls. I think this means we got extra inspection at the Russian border- which took six long hours anyway. As with the Mongolian border crossing, the officials were all in frighteningly pressed and starched uniforms, only without the stiletto patent black ankle boots of the Mongolian officials.
The days rolled past easily; we spent the hours reading, talking or trying to have a wash in the tiny metal sink while being thrown around by the train. To one side, we have the company of two Canadians, Ian and John. Ian was John father, and I can only describe as 'Clint Eastwood' character with his gravelly voice and swaying hips. To our other side, we had two English lads, one of whom a poker addict. After fashioning a makeshift poker table out of the train back rests and suitcases, we would settle down for the night to play Texas hold'em. we improvised chips with pretzels, various coins from our travels and worthers originals (although Ian was sad to let them go.) There may also have been a little vodka involved...
Moscow and St Petersburg
I met dad at the train station yesterday- slightly vexed that in Asia, spotting someone is normally easy. Here suddenly I was faced with the prospect of finding my slightly greying father in his signature leather jacket in a crowd of.. middle aged men sporting leather jackets. However, as the people here so far have had cold, hard faces with steely eyes, I soon picked out a friendly face. We spent yesterday wondering around the city, which is actually more beautiful than I expected, but like it's citizens is steely and cold. I got my first glimpse of St Basil's last night at dusk, and had my first proper meal in about 2 weeks. Wonderful.
Staying in proper hotels, internet access is going to be expensive and I doubt I'll have much free time. So I promise a full train, Mongolia and Russian run-down will appear one I am back in blighty (with no job or any money- I'll have nothing else to do!!)
Monday 30 April 2007
Mongolia
Just o say I'm alive and well and have had the most awesome week. I've eaten dried yak for a week, slept in Gers and smell of goat, but it was a truely wonderful week.
I have to catch a train to Moscow tomorrow that will take 5 days, but more tales to follow..
I have to catch a train to Moscow tomorrow that will take 5 days, but more tales to follow..
Friday 20 April 2007
Romance Found
Once again, China has flummoxed me.
I arrived on the Beijing sleeper train the only laowai in sight, and was immediate fussed over by the two women in my carriage. They lifted me and my backpack up onto the top bunk with much huffing and puffing, and satisfied smiles when I was safely installed. I'm not sure any middle aged women in the UK would pick up a 17 kilo backpack and a 9 stone white girl (seriously- hands lifted me like the scene in Labyrinth when she falls down the hole.)
Beijing is stunning right now- I spent yesterday wondering around the lakes and Hutongs and today exploring the summer palace with my room mate. They were both the stuff of Chinese poetry- cobbled pathways, cherry blossoms, little arched bridges and intricate gardens. How does such elegance fit with such coarseness in the country? I am vexed, and jealous once again that in Asia, something can be totally contradictory and still understood. Darn Descartes and Derrida.
blossoms
The views to the hills over the lake- the summer palace is only an hour from the centre of Beijing and yet very serene
the view over the lakes at dusk yesterday.
I arrived on the Beijing sleeper train the only laowai in sight, and was immediate fussed over by the two women in my carriage. They lifted me and my backpack up onto the top bunk with much huffing and puffing, and satisfied smiles when I was safely installed. I'm not sure any middle aged women in the UK would pick up a 17 kilo backpack and a 9 stone white girl (seriously- hands lifted me like the scene in Labyrinth when she falls down the hole.)
Beijing is stunning right now- I spent yesterday wondering around the lakes and Hutongs and today exploring the summer palace with my room mate. They were both the stuff of Chinese poetry- cobbled pathways, cherry blossoms, little arched bridges and intricate gardens. How does such elegance fit with such coarseness in the country? I am vexed, and jealous once again that in Asia, something can be totally contradictory and still understood. Darn Descartes and Derrida.
blossoms
The views to the hills over the lake- the summer palace is only an hour from the centre of Beijing and yet very serene
the view over the lakes at dusk yesterday.
I had a wonderful dinner last night with a guy I knew from Hong Kong who lived here now. Having formally been someone that used to show up when I was drunk (and he was battered) we actually took some time to talk over yummy hot pot. It was a great evening.
I have also realised I've become an avid reader again since I left HK- around 15 books so far I think. I've been given a copy of The Brother Karamazov, which is apparently essential transiberian reading (although apparently no one ever has time to read on the train) by Tom, who has been no where near the train journey (ah, the travel gods...)
But my favourite is my current book, The Snow Leopard: 'Indicating his twisted legs without a trace of self pity or bitterness, as if they belonged to all of us, he [the lama] casts his arms wide to the sky and the snow mountains, the high sun and the dancing sheep and cries, 'Of course I am happy here! It's wonderful! Especially when I have no choice!''
The perfect passage, in a perfect novel, in the perfect place. Perfect.
Wednesday 18 April 2007
China- the story so far...
As always, apologies for the lack of entries. I've had real trouble finding places that will actually let me see my blog! Ah, China..
Where to begin?I left HK after the Rugby 7's and Spencer's last night in town on a flight to Beijing. I will miss HK a lot- life there has been special, but no doubt one day I'll be back. Beijing was freezing, especially after leaving Thailand's scorching 35c and HK pleasant 25c; Beijing's 10c came as a bit of a shock! Sarah and I successfully found each other (after I journeyed over a 6 lane highway in my backpack! Ops) and Beijing exploration began. We spent a day in Tienanmen Sq and the Forbidden City, saw the acrobats (who were all under 16), hiked for three hours on the great wall and strolled around the Temple of Heaven. I also decided long hair was just way too cold (and Mongolia and Russia would only get colder) so had it all chopped off by a man in Beijing!
The Forbidden City
Sarah and I- the Italian guy totally missed out the background!
The Lama Temple
the Great Wall ( I can't flip the other one- it's all in Chinese!)
We left Beijing for Datong on the sleeper train. Datong was a cold, dirty coal mining city that I wouldn't recommend visiting (ever). However, the Buddhist caves and hanging temple nearby were awesome and made the long trek worthwhile. It was also interesting to see a town that wasn't totally geared towards tourism- Datong felt far more like the industrialised China I was expecting to see than anything I experienced before or after.
My new favourite animal (no idea what it is!) 
Where to begin?I left HK after the Rugby 7's and Spencer's last night in town on a flight to Beijing. I will miss HK a lot- life there has been special, but no doubt one day I'll be back. Beijing was freezing, especially after leaving Thailand's scorching 35c and HK pleasant 25c; Beijing's 10c came as a bit of a shock! Sarah and I successfully found each other (after I journeyed over a 6 lane highway in my backpack! Ops) and Beijing exploration began. We spent a day in Tienanmen Sq and the Forbidden City, saw the acrobats (who were all under 16), hiked for three hours on the great wall and strolled around the Temple of Heaven. I also decided long hair was just way too cold (and Mongolia and Russia would only get colder) so had it all chopped off by a man in Beijing!
The Forbidden City
Sarah and I- the Italian guy totally missed out the background!
The Lama Temple
the Great Wall ( I can't flip the other one- it's all in Chinese!)We left Beijing for Datong on the sleeper train. Datong was a cold, dirty coal mining city that I wouldn't recommend visiting (ever). However, the Buddhist caves and hanging temple nearby were awesome and made the long trek worthwhile. It was also interesting to see a town that wasn't totally geared towards tourism- Datong felt far more like the industrialised China I was expecting to see than anything I experienced before or after.
The hanging temple outside Datong
Inside the temple:
After Datong we managed to get various buses (the ticket counters had signs to hold up in English) to Pingyao- an ancient walled city. It was quaint- although being prepped for Olympic visitors (we would wake up in the morning to discover there was a new road outside our hostel! Quite amazing- in England they'd still be drinking tea at 10am: in China they had built whole new road.)The hostel in Pingyao was relaxed and warm (which made me happy) and keen to help. One morning a Canadian girl was playing Badminton in the street outside our hostel when a two year old ran into her. The family immediately caused a huge scene and demanded money (what a toddler was doing so far away from it's mother on a street heaving with people, stalls and bicycles was never questioned). The guy from the hostel was clearly upset and extremely embarrassed. This kind of exemplifies my experience of Chinese people: they have either been very polite, generous and gracious, or rude, pushy and money grabbing. Every time I feel I have misjudged them as a nation I experience the opposite extreme...
Pingyao city, and Sarah and I being stupid in a mirror... 
From Pingyao we journeyed onto Xi'an. The first day we wondered around the Islamic quarter eating strange delicacies, followed by a night out withe the team from Pingyao. We saw the Terracotta Warriors, which were incredible due to the huge scale of the project (mum and I actually got closer to them in Barcelona?! How weird.) What was odd though was that the misspelling and appalling grammar continued throughout the displays even here. Large red banners had been erected- presumably because of the anticipated increase in visitors next year- and Terracotta was spelt wrong on all of them. It seems so strange that such a noticeable effort is being made to make these areas tourist friendly and to impress all the visitors to the Olympics, that they don't spell check anything.
Out in Xi'an with people from Pingyao...
Xi'an streets at dusk..
Them there warriors!
Spot the difference:
Being papped by local students (ok, well we were wearing traditional Chinese outfits!) 
Sarah's birthday party- thrown by the hostel in Xi'an! 
Tom proves to Sarah the same amount of tAquila is in the wine glass as was in the shot glass..
Sarah and Tom making dumplings.. 
We also went to an animal sanctuary and saw many mysterious beasts (including my new favourite animal). It was an odd experience- the place wasn't what we would expect from sanctuary in the West. And yet, in a country where everything qualifies as food, places like these are few and far between; these animals are lucky to be here. Panda's certainly would be extinct in a few years, partly due to humans and partly due to the fact they just haven't evolved to do anything useful, if they weren't here. But it felt like a cold hard concrete place to me. Another of China's paradoxes it seems..
My new favourite animal (no idea what it is!) I left Sarah and got on a sleeper train to Beijing, picking up some companions on the way. We all went on a Chinese Yangzte River cruise, which was as interesting for it's scenery as the experience of being on a boat with 500 Chinese people on an organised tour. We certainly have totally different expectations of fun to the Chinese! After being poked repeatedly by my Chinese roommates, one English speaking guide decided it would be better for everyone if I moved in with the two Danish girls. I am both happy and sad about this- while it was far more comfortable to be with my friends, it would've been interesting to try and communicate with my roommates. We visited the ghost city, which was a weird mix of temples and bad amusement arcade. The mini three gorges were lovely, and we got dropped on land for a meal together in the evening (again the travel gods were kind: no one could read the Chinese menu, and no one had any idea when the boat was leaving, but it all worked out ok!)
The ghost city?!
Becca, Ane and Gry
No one was impressed with Paul's chick on a stick..
Monday 2 April 2007
Friday 30 March 2007
On being a human yo-yo
So, I have started waking up at 3am wondering why exactly I'm spending 10 days on my own in China, followed by another 10 in mongolia and then 5 days on a train to Russia. Argh. Still the things that scare me tend to be the best things I've done, so here's to an affirming, fun experience. Gulp.
As for HK, things have settled down, although still not totally 'settled'. It seems I'm never going to be allowed closure on bits of this experience. I swing between wanting to just be totally forgiving and wanting to demand being treated with more respect. Having lunch with some people from work gave me a sudden flash of what it was like in that office- and made me very glad to have moved on.
I almost have a Russian visa (it's been a bit of a saga) and should eb off to Beijing to meet Sarah in a couple of days. It will be very cool to see her- so much to catch up on! xx
As for HK, things have settled down, although still not totally 'settled'. It seems I'm never going to be allowed closure on bits of this experience. I swing between wanting to just be totally forgiving and wanting to demand being treated with more respect. Having lunch with some people from work gave me a sudden flash of what it was like in that office- and made me very glad to have moved on.
I almost have a Russian visa (it's been a bit of a saga) and should eb off to Beijing to meet Sarah in a couple of days. It will be very cool to see her- so much to catch up on! xx
Wednesday 28 March 2007
Back in HK
Ok, so next to Spencer maybe I look a little too brown/tangoed??!
I love Ben!
Alcohol begins to take affect (and then I was too drunk to take any more pics!)the jungle and living on a boat
my nellie!
and they let us sit on their heads like a true nellie rider!
..and we found these!
Birgit and Dave (sorry it's sideways)
One of the beautiful scenes we woke up to in the mornings!
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